Rent a Home in Italy

I am thinking about renting a place in Italy for a week or so at some point before the airfares get outrageous this spring. I've now done this a few times - apartments and houses, cities and countryside - and am now contemplating the small village rental. It seems the best choice for when it's still a little chilly out (no point having a huge terrace if you can't sit out there) and when I'm looking for some peace and quiet. In anticipation, some thoughts on places already rented.

Montecatini Terme. Back in the day, six or so years ago, some lovely ladies and I rented this house in the northern bit of Tuscany. This was a huge find, not only for its affordability, but for the fact that it came with an entertaining "landlord" named Lorenzo. Lorenzo now seems to have upgraded his website to the point of overwhelming, but the place is still a good find. It's a gorgeous traditional country house surrounded by olive groves, halfway between Florence and Lucca and within day trip distance of all but the southernmost part of Tuscany. The nearest train station, in Montecatini Terme, is a ten minute drive and zips you right into Florence. We did days in Florence, Lucca, Pisa, and Chianti. We also took a lovely drive north one day, just sort of following the roads towards the mountains, and happened onto the Ponte Del Diavolo (Devil's Leap Bridge), tucked among the villages. Combined with roadside stands with amazing mushrooms, it was quite a find.

Rome. I've discussed these spots before, but I'd recommend the Trastevere neighborhood for apartment rentals (although the place I rented about six years ago seems to have disappeared). I'd also highly recommend this gem that we rented about a year ago, right around the corner from the Pantheon. It appears the owner now rents two apartments in the same building - we stayed in "Blu".

Perdifumo. Ah, Perdifumo. This place was brilliant - a four bedroom villa about two hours south of Naples, near a town called Santa Maria del Castellabate. The villa is a 5 minute drive outside the little village of Perdifumo, which is utterly devoid of tourists. It had a huge terrace with views to the sea and was surrounded by orchards. You could grab some white figs right off the tree for breakfast, and walk to the alimenteria and macelleria for pasta with the world's tastiest sausage for dinner. It even has a pizza oven that, along with an American from London, we made our own homemade pizzas in. The villa is close enough for daytrips to the Amalfi Coast, but if and when we return, I think I'm just going to stay on the terrace.

Bellagio. Despite the overabundance of British tourists, I loved Lake Como and renting an apartment was a nice way to enjoy the scenery without hearing the Brits in the room next door. We rented a medium sized apartment from a short term rental apartment type hotel and it was not only a bargain, but surprisingly lovely. Next time I'd get one with a "full view" of the lake, rather than a partial one, but other than that no complaints. I liked Bellagio, although we weren't there at top tourist season and I suspect my feelings would change in the summertime. Nonetheless, Lake Como was spectacular and this apartment was right in town, convenient to restaurants, and even little markets right outside the door.

Rome

I am off to a more exotic destination in a few weeks, but some friends are going to Rome this weekend. So that has me thinking about la dolce vita. Some thoughts about favorite places:

Where to stay:

My adventures in Rome have been based in rented apartments to date. One charming place in Trastevere seems to no longer be listed on the internet, but it was tucked off the quiet Piazza Piscinula. The most recent visit was based in a lovely old building down a little road from the Pantheon. I won't tell you which place, for fear of a gem being overrun, but www.b-b.rm.it has some lovely leads and was the source of my find.

If I were ever going back on a spending spree, I think I'd cast an eye at the Hotel Farnese or Albergo Del Senato (you can't go wrong with balconies).

What to do:

Markets. I love markets. Mornings in the Campo dei Fiori are a must, and whichever little market of the day you happen onto is likely a gem.

Walking. Rome is big enough for a whole day's wandering, but with the boundaries defined so that you don't get helplessly lost. Plus, head in any direction and you'll find a major sight for the tourist in you, a great cafe for sore feet, and an unlikely little trattoria or, these days, wine bar for lunch.

Coffee. A little caffe freddo - cold espresso with sugar - in the summer is just the best break from all of your walking and marketing. But, really, if you walk in somewhere that's crowded and order any espresso drink, you're bound to do alright. Certainly better than Starbucks. Plus, the fresh orange juice is divinde. If it's morning and you're a little hungry, have a cornetto (I prefer plain) with your caffeeine. A favorite spot is Caffe Sant'Eustachio, on a small piazza of the same name near the Pantheon.

Eating. If you're not cooking at your cute apartment with the ingredients purchased at that morning's market, some places to try are:

Armanda al Pantheon is a slow food joint that's very satisfying, although definitely discovered by the well-informed tourist. This is an excellent choice for when you're not feeling too adventurous, but don't want to pay too much for disappointing food.

For that whole Roman mamma in the kitchen vibe, try Ristorante del Pallaro, Largo del Pallaro 15. You might have to eat whatever mamma feels like cooking that night, but it's guaranteed to be good.

Cavour 313 - on via Cavour, number 313, near the Forum - is a wine bar with light food that is an inspired choice for lunch after the ruins, or a light dinner if you're staying in the area.

Drinking. Any caffe will fix you up a campari and soda (or, my choice, a prosecco) pronto, but sometimes you need a little bit of chic with your aperitivo.

Word is these days the place to be is the Hotel de Russie.

Another choice is the rooftop bar at Hotel Eden, via Ludovisi 49, near the top of the Spanish Steps.