Rome

I am off to a more exotic destination in a few weeks, but some friends are going to Rome this weekend. So that has me thinking about la dolce vita. Some thoughts about favorite places:

Where to stay:

My adventures in Rome have been based in rented apartments to date. One charming place in Trastevere seems to no longer be listed on the internet, but it was tucked off the quiet Piazza Piscinula. The most recent visit was based in a lovely old building down a little road from the Pantheon. I won't tell you which place, for fear of a gem being overrun, but www.b-b.rm.it has some lovely leads and was the source of my find.

If I were ever going back on a spending spree, I think I'd cast an eye at the Hotel Farnese or Albergo Del Senato (you can't go wrong with balconies).

What to do:

Markets. I love markets. Mornings in the Campo dei Fiori are a must, and whichever little market of the day you happen onto is likely a gem.

Walking. Rome is big enough for a whole day's wandering, but with the boundaries defined so that you don't get helplessly lost. Plus, head in any direction and you'll find a major sight for the tourist in you, a great cafe for sore feet, and an unlikely little trattoria or, these days, wine bar for lunch.

Coffee. A little caffe freddo - cold espresso with sugar - in the summer is just the best break from all of your walking and marketing. But, really, if you walk in somewhere that's crowded and order any espresso drink, you're bound to do alright. Certainly better than Starbucks. Plus, the fresh orange juice is divinde. If it's morning and you're a little hungry, have a cornetto (I prefer plain) with your caffeeine. A favorite spot is Caffe Sant'Eustachio, on a small piazza of the same name near the Pantheon.

Eating. If you're not cooking at your cute apartment with the ingredients purchased at that morning's market, some places to try are:

Armanda al Pantheon is a slow food joint that's very satisfying, although definitely discovered by the well-informed tourist. This is an excellent choice for when you're not feeling too adventurous, but don't want to pay too much for disappointing food.

For that whole Roman mamma in the kitchen vibe, try Ristorante del Pallaro, Largo del Pallaro 15. You might have to eat whatever mamma feels like cooking that night, but it's guaranteed to be good.

Cavour 313 - on via Cavour, number 313, near the Forum - is a wine bar with light food that is an inspired choice for lunch after the ruins, or a light dinner if you're staying in the area.

Drinking. Any caffe will fix you up a campari and soda (or, my choice, a prosecco) pronto, but sometimes you need a little bit of chic with your aperitivo.

Word is these days the place to be is the Hotel de Russie.

Another choice is the rooftop bar at Hotel Eden, via Ludovisi 49, near the top of the Spanish Steps.