Glimpses of Japan Part I: Shiraishi Island

So, more years ago than I would like to think, I spent a spell in Japan. Those who knew me then can vouch that these were not the best months of my life, but there were travel experiences during those months that ranged from sublime to deeply bizarre. So I shall share some of these anecdotes.

Part One is a place called Shiraishi Island. It's a small island in the Seto Inland Sea, about halfway between Okayama and Hiroshima. To get to this little spot, you must take the train to Kasaoka (local line from Okayama), then wander your way down to the docks, misinterpreting the unintelligible signs along the way, until you happen onto the ferry. Then, hop on the little ferry and you're there in thirty minutes.

The island is a small, one imagines slowly-fading, fishing community. There are no cars, only boats. Its chief attraction, aside from solitude and views is that it is home to one of the Okayama International Villas. These places are gems. They are houses in Okayama province, established to facilitate international understanding or some such thing. They are all terrific, and cheap (about $30 a person a night). The Shiraishi house is a modern affair, with double rooms, a great deck, and communal kitchen and living areas.

So your plan is this: exit the ferry, wind through the traditional houses up the hill to the house. Shower, have a sit on the deck. Then wind back down the hill to the little groceries to assemble provisions for dinner. Wind your way back up the hill, read your book on the deck, pull together a nice stir fry, and watch the stars.

There's a little beach down below the villa if you're feeling like you need some sand, and a Buddhist monument and temple in the middle of the island if you need some culture. Plus, wandering around the little village is endlessly entertaining in that quirky Japanese way (little old ladies! beer vending machines!)

If you're feeling active, a hiking trail circles the island and offers spectacular views of boats headed out to sea. There are lovely benches at lookout spots, so head up with a picnic and a book and soak it all in. The serenity of this quiet spot is the perfect anecdote to the crowds and neon of big city Japan.